Equipment
Home Up Residents Equipment

 

   

 

Lighting

A simple lighting hood was used at first, but we soon upgraded to a dual bulb NO (Normal Output) hood.  Two bulbs are used, a 36" Actinic 50/50 NO 6000 deg Kelvin bulb, and a 36" Super Actinic 100% blue spectrum 7200 deg kelvin bulb.   Metal Halide lighting is planned for the new tank after we move.

Powerheads

Two powerheads are used inside the tank to promote water circulation.  Both powerheads are Neptune brand heads.  Nothing fancy... just there to move the water around, and keep the water moving!

Sump / Filtering

The 38 Gallon tank has a 10 gallon sump tank underneath the main tank.   There are several purposes of the sump tank, two being increased water volume and improved filtration.  The sump also provides a hidden place for other equipment that would normally hang in or on the main tank, such as a skimmer, heater(s), and other hardware.

Pre Filter

The Pre Filter resides in and on the main tank, but it is the first step in getting water down to the sump.  My Pre Filter uses a siphon tube to transfer water out of the main tank and into the pre filter box, where water passes through a sponge to remove large particles before being sent down to the sump via gravity.

Sediment Trap

Detritus Filter (39371 bytes)The Sediment Trap is the next filtering device the water passes through.  I had it custom manufactured at a local plastics shop.  It simply forces water to constantly change direction, thus forcing larger (and even smaller) waste particles to fall out.  The graphic on the right shows a Sediment Trap in detail.  Click the image to see a larger image (39k).  It is for a much larger tank, and the illustration is from Robert Michelson's Aquarium Page.  Thanks, Robert!

Wet/Dry

Next is the Wet/Dry Filter.  Again, I had it custom made at a local plastics shop.  My wet/dry contains about 3 gallons of bio-balls to increase the amount of aerobic bacteria.  The bacteria breaks down wastes from the tank, especially ammonia.  I plan on removing the Wet/Dry after we move, and replacing it with a case or two of Live Rock.  Live Rock provides better filtering than a wet/dry can offer.

Heater

I have a 200 watt Tronic Heater in the sump, eliminating the need to look at a heater every time I look in my tank!  The heater rarely comes on, for the pumps, powerheads and especially the lights generate enough heat to keep the tank at a constant 81 - 83 degrees.  Cooling is not a problem... that is, until I install Metal Halide lighting after we move!  The house is air conditioned in the summer, so the tank has never been hotter than 83 degrees.  We'll see what happens when we move!

Skimmer

A CPR Bak Pak performs the dirty job of removing "muck" from the tank.   A Skimmer is used to remove unwanted proteins and other wastes from the water.   It achieves this by creating millions of tiny bubbles, forcing the wastes to stick to the bubbles, and thus rising up the water colum and into a collection cup of dark brown muck!  It's amazing what that little Bak Pak can get out of that tank in a few days!

Return Pump

I use an AquaClear 802 powerhead as a return pump from the sump to the main tank.  It works great - remember that I don't have a large tank!  A piece of clear tubing runs up to the tank, where I fabricated a spray bar out of PVC pipe.   The spray bar distributes the filtered water across the surface of the main tank, creating surface agitation, and promoting gas exchange in the water.

 

 

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This page last updated Monday, November 05, 2001
This site  last updated on Monday, November 05, 2001