Here
is a list of non-aquarium related catalogs that have items that may be of
use to the serious aquarist and DIYer.
Return to Top of Page
AIN Plastics
1-800-431-2451
A nationwide plastic supplier. They have about a dozen outlets and also ship orders.
The catalog contains info and specs on many types of plastics that are useful for DIY aquarium
projects. They have a $50 minimum order.
C.F. Bowman & Co.
38 Addington Court
East Brunswick, NJ 08816
PH (908) 390-6436
FX (908) 390-6438
C.F. Bowman & Co. I heard of by e-mail, but I later noticed their ad in
FAMA. Their prices on acrylic tubing look very good, at least; a 60"
long 6" od 1/8" wall clear cast acrylic tube is $35.75, which is about
60% of what I paid. I didn't find extruded tube, but they do say to call
for items not listed. They are ostensibly wholesale only, so you may
need to give a company name. They also have a $50 minimum order.
C and H Sales Company
P.O. Box 5356
2176 E. Colorado Blvd
Pasadena CA 91117-9988
(213) 681-4925 (LA)
(818) 796-2628 (Pasadena)
(800) 325-9465
C & H sells a wide collection of surplus and used equipment,
ranging from fans, blowers, pumps (water, air, and otherwise),
electronic components, motors (ac, dc, gearhead, stepper), solenoids,
laboratory glassware, chart recorders, and tools through stranger things
like gyrocompasses and a bit of defense electronics. Prices vary
but are often quite good. For those in Southern California, their
store has lots of odd items in quantities too small to include in the
catalog.
Cole-Palmer
800-323-4340
708 647-7600
A huge catalog of test equipment and related industrial hardware.
Like Markson, much is beyond the need and budget of a hobbyist, but much
is not. One of this FAQ's authors gets his lab sized DI cartridges
from Cole-Palmer.
Grainger Industrial
http://www.grainger.com
800-323-0620
A nationwide chain of wholesalers of industrial needs. They
have many stores in most states. There is probably one near
you. They have a huge catalog of all sorts of things for DIYers,
float-switches, ballasts, tools, you name it. They are a
wholesaler so they technically won't sell to individuals. If you
walk in (they have a counter just like any retail hardware store) and
pay cash and give the name of a local company, they will sell to
you. They just need to have the name of a company to put on the
invoice because legally, they are a wholesaler. You don't need a
tax number when you are paying cash. You can just go in and give
them the name of the company where you work. It is probably a good
idea to call ahead and see if the item you want is in stock.
Hach - Products for Analysis
800-227-4224
A catalog of testing items. This is the next step if you want
better test kits than best kits normally available to the hobbyist (like
Lamotte). Many of their products are not beyond the budget of a
serious hobbyist. The also carry chemistry hardware like
glassware.
Herbach and Rademan
800-848-8001
800-488-3407 - Surplus Center
402-474-4055 - Surplus Center
A miscellaneous junk catalog with all sorts of electronic,
mechanical, and pumping widgets and other gadgets. Also, surplus
junk like power supplies.
A catalog of a variety of scientific
equipment, mostly chemistry related. Many of their items are well
beyond the need and budget of hobbyist but much of it is not.
The
catalog has a large number of pages dedicated to hydraulic motors,
pumps, and valves, which are useless to reef keepers because of their
metal construction. However, the selection of electric motors is greater
than that of the other surplus catalogs listed in this document, and
some of these are finding their ways into experimental reef tank
applications.
United States Plastic Corp.
1390 Neubrecht Rd.
Lima, Ohio 45801
800-537-9724
US Plastics sells a large selection of basic materials, plus an
equally large assortment of various manufactured items made of plastic
and some related items like fluid pumps. A few of the less common
items which come to mind are clear PVC, plastic tanks up to a few
thousand gallons, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene stock,
flexible impeller pumps, and plastic welders. Of special interest
to the diy'er would be items like the thickened acrylic cement (IMHO
required for the best and strongest watertight acrylic joints), their
rod, pipe, tube, and sheet stock in pvc and acrylic (where else do you
find clear sheet pvc, or 90 degree sweep fittings for lower
backpressure?), and the large food-quality drums for storing RO/DI water
and mixed saltwater. The fun of finding stuff you didn't know
existed shouldn't be under-rated either.
Return to Top of Page
7.0 Some
Questions and Answers
Q: Can I do this cheaply?
A: No, relative to a similar size fish-only tank. (See cost
estimate section)
Q: What if all I want to keep is Anemones?
A: Water quality requirements drop some (Nitrates should remain under
20ppm NO3-). Lighting requirements are similar to full-reef
tanks.
* The keeping of clownfish hosting anemones is coming under some
justified ethical review. In nature these anemones are very long
lived and have low successful reproduction rates. This compounds
with typically short
(a couple of years vs. potentially hundreds in the wild) lifetimes of
captive anemones.
Q: What are good test kits?
A: Tetra Hardness
* Hach Calcium, Iron, Phosphate - (303) 669-3050
* LaMotte Nitrate, Phosphate
Hach Test kit
details:
Calcium: Cat No 1457-01, Model HA-4P,
$47.50, 100 test
Dilute your sample 2:1 (Distilled:Saltwater).
Each drop of titrant will equal 24mg/l of Ca++
Dilution saves titrant, and yields clearer results
with sufficient accuracy.
Iron: Cat No 22993-00, Model
IR-21, $57.50, 100 test
* Very important if Macro Algae growth of primary interest.
Phosphate: Cat No 2248-00, Mdl PO-19, $54.50, 100 test
This test is 2.5 times more sensitive than the LaMotte test.
The Hach is rated down to 0.02ppm, the LaMotte 0.05ppm.
Silica: Cat No 22550-00, Model SI-7, $72.50,
100 test
* Not tested by any of the authors of this FAQ. Mentioned due
to its availability and track record of Hach kits.
Q: What about cheaper kits?
A: Kordon Ammonia, Nitrite, low-end Nitrate not bad for gross
measurement,
* will need LaMotte Nitrate after water is in proper pollution
range.
Q: Which Salt Mix is best?
A: Instant Ocean works for many. Reef Crystal has had reported
problems. Tropic Marin recommended by some. Coralife dissolves
fast, can sometimes be found cheap, but is suspected of having higher
borate concentrations than natural seawater.
* Note that all 50 gallon bags of salt are not the same.
Instant Ocean bags weigh in at 16lbs each, Coralife at 14.5lbs
each. There is no magic here, at a given temperature, a bag of IO
will make a solution of higher specific gravity (or more gallons at the
same specific gravity) than a bag of Coralife will.
Q: How do I get rid of algae in my reef tank?
A: There are three
types of undesirable "algae" that commonly grow in reef tanks:
long green strands of hair algae, short fuzzy green turf algae, and brown
or red slime algae. Some people also consider fleshy macro alga,
such as Caulerpa, to be a pest as they can overgrow and
choke out corals. Desirable alga are the calcareous ones, both
encrusting coralline alga in pink, purple, white, yellow, maroon and
brown, and larger calcareous alga such as Halimeda. Some believe
that any Macroalgae (Caulerpa, Halimeda, etc.) do not belong in Reef
tanks.
"Slime" alga is actually cyanobacteria, not an
alga. While its growth is often taken as a sign of poor water
quality, its occurrence is part of the normal succession of a developing
aquarium. It is uncommon for it not to occur at some point. With
patience it will go away all on its own, but there are some things you can
do to expedite the situation and help prevent it from recurring:
Chevron
and Mimic tangs are known for having an appetite for cyanobacteria, as are
baby queen conch and some hermit crabs. Adding such creatures should
help a lot. So will inoculating the tank with some substrate from an
established tank that is slime algae free. Apparently such tanks
harbor microfauna that consume or otherwise compete with the cyanobacteria.
By inoculating a tank experiencing the problem with a small handful of
substrate (a few tablespoons full will do) from an established tank
without the problem, chances are good that you will get a starter colony
of the desired microfauna. Use of activated carbon, strong protein
skimming, active mechanical removal, strong water currents, and use of kalkwasser,
will also help control its growth. As with most things associated
with reef tanks, don't expect overnight results.
We STRONGLY
recommend AGAINST the use of ANY antibiotics, such as Maracyn, in reef
tanks. As a reef aquarist, you spend a lot of effort and resources
to build the bio-diversity of your tank up. Use of antibiotics is in
direct conflict with that goal. At best, it's a temporary setback
for the cynanobacteria, which, like most bacteria, will eventually build
up a resistance to the antibiotic.
The best way to deal with hair
and turf algae is not to let it grow to begin with. Keep the tank
dark while it is initially cycling. Keep nitrates and phosphates as
low as possible, and siphon out detritus. Keep herbivores in the
tank. Snails (as many as 1 for every 2-3 gallons) will eat turf
algae, and hair algae before it gets long. Tangs (especially
Chevron, Mimic, and Yellow) and many small blennies will eat many forms of
algae. If the tank does become overgrown, pull as much as possible
out by hand. Reduce the light cycle, or if there is nothing light
sensitive in the tank, leave it in darkness for a couple of weeks.
Get more herbivores. Be sure to siphon out their droppings, which if
left in the tank make great algae fertilizer. I have found that
urchins can help recover an overgrown tank, although they will knock
things over and eat any kind of algae, including desirable calcareous
algaes. Large numbers of small hermit crabs (on the order of 1 per
gallon) are very effective at removing and maintaining hair-algae
free live rock - but do little for sidewalls and glass. As usual, a
large bio-diversity with a mix of snails, tangs, crabs, and other
herbivores will do the best job.
Two relatively new concepts are
currently getting some attention in regards to hair algae control:
- micrograzers and
- long cycling
Some are beginning to believe that the small Copepods and other "meiograzers"
have a substantial impact on the quantity of visible hair algae. The
belief is that the hair algae is always there, it's simply mowed down by
the meiograzers to the point where it's not typically visible. If
this is true, then inclusion of some fish, like mandarins (which feed
heavily on this size prey) would be inappropriate for reef tanks. As
mentioned in the Live Rock section
of this FAQ, the patience to allow a tank to cycle for 3-12 months prior
to the addition of most fish (and any non-herbivore fish) may improve the
stability of the tank in regards to hair algae. Although hair algae
will normally bloom during this period, a compensating population of
micrograzers will also bloom. Once the two come into balance, the
normal routine of slowly adding additional life forms can commence.
Q: How do I treat a fish with ich in a reef tank?
A: From Craig Bingman:
- I don't know of any medication for the treatment of marine ich that
is safe to use in a reef tank.
- A pair of Lysmata cleaner shrimp typically can make a large
difference, even in cases where there is an ectoparasite explosion
caused by an incoming fish.
- If there are recurring problems of this sort in a reef aquarium, the
problem is almost certainly a symptom of an underlying system
performance or fish health issue.
The first places to look are:
Some fish that are cyanide-compromised may be too weak and internally
damaged that there is little that can be done to help them.
The use of a quarantine tank is probably the best solution. A
small 10 gallon tank with a heater, air-stone, and some live rock for
filtration should suffice. If treatment of a new fish is required,
it should be moved to a similar, but live-rockless, hospital tank where
medication can be administered. When doing a water change from your
main tank, consider using any clean collected water as source water for
your quarantine and hospital tanks. This will help acclimate your
new purchases to the water parameters associated with their future home.
Return to Top of Page
8.0 Book
Review and Comments:
The Reef Aquarium Vol. 1, A
comprehensive Guide to the Identification and Care of Tropical Marine
Invertebrates
by J. Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung
1994. Ricordea Publishing, Florida
ISBN 1-883693-12-8
Introduces the beginner to the
reef hobby in an understandable manner. All established reef tank
techniques are discussed. Even the expert gets a comprehensive
overview. Nice to read, up to date and a MUST for all serious reef
hobbyists. Vol. 2 will follow.
The Modern Coral Reef Aquarium Vol. 1
by Alf J. Nilsen and Svein Fossa
1996. B. Schmettkamp-Verlag, Bornheim, Germany
ISBN 3-928819-29-1
This Vol. 1 starts a book series
that has all of what's needed to become the backbone of the reef hobby.
In addition to the information value, it presents an enormous amount of
brilliant picture materials. Some of the later Volumes are already
available in German and contain more than 1,000 colored pictures per
book. Vol. 1 gives a description of all techniques for setting up and
maintaining reef tanks. Should not be the very first book for the
beginning enthusiast, but is probably the best Holiday gift for any
serious reef hobbyist.
Note that the English
version and German versions of this series are in a different order with
some different content:
English Volume 1 =
German Volume 1 and Volume 2
English Volume 2 = German Volume 4 (Cnidaria)
English Volume 3 = German Volume 5 (unicellular animals, sponges, worms,
mollusks)
English Volume 4 = German Volume 6 (other invertebrates)
English Volume 5 = German Volume 3 (fishes, with extensive rewriting)
Giant Clams, A comprehensive Guide to the Identification and Care of
Tridacnid Clams
by Daniel Knop
1996, Daehne-Verlag, Ettlingen, Germany
ISBN 3-921684-23-4
The first book dedicated to
giant clams. Lots of information about tridacnid clams and basic
information about setting up and maintaining a reef tank. Whoever
likes clams will love the book.
The Marine Aquarium Handbook, Beginner to Breeder
by Martin A. Moe, Jr.
1982. Norns Publishing Company
ISBN 0-939960-02-08
An excellent first reference on
many topics. Not reef oriented.
The Marine Aquarium Reference, Systems and Invertebrates
by Martin A. Moe, Jr.
1989. Green Turtle Publications, Florida
ISBN 0-939960-05-2
The place to begin
looking for almost every topic. Discussion of filtration is
exhaustive, though a bit spare on modern Berlin practice (is this still
true in the new edition?). A must buy for every reefkeeper.
Advanced Reef Keeping I, A Comprehensive Guide to Setting up Your
Reef Tank
by Albert J. Thiel
1989. Aardvark Press
ISBN 0-945777-01-9
Small Reef Aquarium Basics, The Optimum Aquarium for the Reef
Hobbyist
by Albert J. Thiel
1989. Aardvark Press
ISBN - 0945777-02-7
Some good information buried
among dubious advice and the most wretched editing ever conceived.
His filtration ideas are rather old-fashioned. This guy sold the
expensive equipment that he recommends, so Caveat Emptor should be your
motto.
Thiel advocates one particular way of
maintaining reef aquaria. It's not the only way, and it may not be
the best way, but it does work. The usual advice is for people to
read his books, but to do so skeptically.
Dynamic Aquaria
by Walter H. Adey and Karen Loveland
1991 Academic Press, Inc.
ISBN 0-12-043790-2
This book addresses designing
reef (and other) aquaria on ecological principles. The book is best
known for its extensive coverage of the Algal Turf Scrubber method of
water purification. The hobby remains skeptical of the use of
algal scrubbers as the primary means of water purification on systems
that maintain stony corals; see the scrubber section of this FAQ.
However, text dealing with algal scrubbers is just a small portion of
the book. Much of the space in the book is spent reviewing the
established scientific literature on aquatic ecosystems, in language
that the dedicated amateur aquarist can understand. The statements that
the book makes *in the review sections* are well supported by citations
to the scientific literature, and in this way the book provides a nice
bridge to those who want to begin exploring the scientific literature.
After reviewing a particular aspect of natural ecology, the authors
discuss appropriate ways to model that aspect of ecology in a small,
closed system. It is in these sections that the reader must be more
careful, because the authors often do not distinguish what are widely
established results and what are their unproven hypotheses. If read
critically but with an open mind, the book offers a lot to serious
hobbyists.
The Reef Tank Owner's Manual
by John H. Tullock
October 10, 1990. Aardvark Press
ISBN 0-945777-06-x
Discussion of filtration is
old-fashioned, similar to Thiel's books but somewhat more
grammatical. Good discussions of individual animals and animal
choices aimed at the beginning and intermediate reefkeeper.
Invertebrates: Tube-, Soft-, and Branching Corals
by Peter Wilkens / Johannes Birkholz
1986, Engelbert Pfriem Verlag, Wuppertal
ISBN 3-921677-14-9
Invertebrates: Stone and False Corals, Colonial Anemones
by Peter Wilkens
1990, Engelbert Pfriem Verlag, Wuppertal
ISBN 3-921677-15-7
The authors' experience and
reputation is vast. Unfortunately production quality of the
English translation is poor, but there is no other comparable
reference. A must buy for anyone intending to keep corals.
Daehne-Verlag in Ettlingen, Germany, bought all the books from Pfreim
Verlag upon Mr. Pfriem's retirement.
Fishes for the Invertebrate Aquarium, 3rd ed.
by Helmut Debelius
1989. Aquarium Systems
An absolutely fascinating
speaker, BTW. If you ever get a chance to hear him speak, do so!
Quite a lot of good information on reef-compatible fishes.
Armored Knights of the Sea
Absolutely fantastic shrimp book. Out of print,
gold if you can get your hand on it.
Corals of Australia and the Indo-Pacific
by J.E.N. Veron
Copyright 1986 The Australian Institute of Marine Science
1993 University of Hawaii Press
ISBN 0-8248-1504-1
The definitive reference book
for the Indo-Pacific stony corals. The original is out of print
and very difficult to find. A reprint run has recently been done.
Living Corals
by Douglas Faulkner & Richard Chesher
1979, Crown Publishers, Inc.
ISBN 0-517-53854-7
This is one of those big picture
books of corals, but it's the best one I've ever seen. The photos
are all top-notch, most show large groupings of a single species.
The descriptions are not with the pictures, which can be disconcerting
until you get used to it.
I believe this
book is out-of-print, though I often find used copies (fairly cheap!) at
a local bookstore.
Marine Plants of the Caribbean, A Field Guide from Florida to Brazil
by Diane Scullion Littler, Mark M. Littler, Katina
E. Bucher,& James N. Norris
1989. Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington D.C.
ISBN 0-87474-607-8
Quite a good reference book
describing various species of algae that are found in the waters of the
Caribbean.
Seaweeds of Hawaii, A Photographic Identification Guide
by William H. Magruder and Jeffrey W. Hunt
1979. The Oriental Publishing Company
ISBN 0-932596-12-6
Another excellent reference
identifying algae found around Hawaii. Out of print.
The Manual of Marine Invertebrates
by Martyn Haywood and Sue Wells
1989. Salamander Books Ltd., London
ISBN 0-86101-474-X
I'd recommend the Manual of
Marine Invertebrates by Hayward. While this does not go into a
great deal of detail on anything, it covers every class of inverts and
is good for learning about what's on your live rock and the basics of
care for different kinds of creatures. It contains quite a few
mistakes, but is a good reference book nonetheless.
Encyclopedia of Marine Inverts
by Jerry Walls
1988. TFH, Neptune, NJ
ISBN 0-86622-141-7
Compared to Manual of Marine
Invertebrates by Hayward and found that the later (Wall's book) appeared
to have a lot more info. It isn't a great book from the aquarium
point of view but does cover the basics of all the Phyla. It has a
lot of color plates. I was able to identify a number of Live-Rock
ReefCritters™ with it.
Dr. Burgess's Atlas of Marine Aquarium Fishes
by Dr. Warren E. Burgess, Dr. Herbert R. Axelrod, &
Raymond E. Hunziker III
1988. T.F.H. Publications
TFH# H-1100
The big picture book of fishes.
Considered the first book to look marine fish up in. Second
edition has been published.
The Captive Reef: A Concise Guide to Reef Aquaria in the Home
by Dana Riddle
1995, Energy Savers Unlimited, Inc.
ISBN 0-9640147-2-6
This is a good starter book for
the beginning reef aquarist. The subject of reef aquaria is
treated in an easy to understand format targeted at the layman.
While targeted at the layman there is some information in the text of
interest to the intermediate and advanced aquarist, mostly in the form
of charts and graphs. There is also a chapter on feeding corals
that aquarist may find useful as a starting point for experimentation.
Tropical Pacific Invertebrates: A Field Guild to the Marine
Invertebrates Occuring on Tropical Pacific Coral Reefs, Seagrass Beds and
Mangroves
by Patrick L. Colin & Charles Arneson
1995, Coral Reef Press
ISBN 0-9645625-0-2
This is a good reference book
with lots of high quality color plates of tropical pacific
invertebrates. The text is organized by phylum and each section
starts with an introduction to that phylum. Color plates of many
species in each phylum accompanied by short textual descriptions follow
the introduction section. Many of the various invertebrates kept
in aquaria are represented.
Return to Top of Page
9.0
Useful Tables
9.1 Temperature
9.2 Alkalinity
9.3 Nitrogen
9.4 Calcium
Return
to Top of Page
9.1 Temperature
C F
20.00 68.00
20.20 68.36
20.40 68.72
20.60 69.08
20.80 69.44
21.00 69.80
21.20 70.16
21.40 70.52
21.60 70.88
21.80 71.24
22.00 71.60
22.20 71.96
22.40 72.32
22.60 72.68
22.80 73.04
23.00 73.40
23.20 73.76
23.40 74.12
23.60 74.48
23.80 74.84
24.00 75.20
24.20 75.56
24.40 75.92
24.60 76.28
24.80 76.64
25.00 77.00
25.20 77.36
25.40 77.72
25.60 78.08
25.80 78.44
26.00 78.80
26.20 79.16
26.40 79.52
26.60 79.88
26.80 80.24
27.00 80.60
27.20 80.96
27.40 81.32
27.60 81.68
27.80 82.04
28.00 82.40
28.20 82.76
28.40 83.12
28.60 83.48
28.80 83.84
29.00 84.20
29.20 84.56
29.40 84.92
29.60 85.28
29.80 85.64
30.00 86.00
Return to Top of Page
9.2 Alkalinity
meq/l ppm KH
CaCO3
0.00 0.00 0.00
0.05 2.50 0.14
0.10 5.00 0.28
0.15 7.50 0.42
0.20 10.00 0.56
0.25 12.50 0.70
0.30 15.00 0.84
0.35 17.50 0.98
0.40 20.00 1.12
0.45 22.50 1.26
0.50 25.00 1.40
0.55 27.50 1.54
0.60 30.00 1.68
0.65 32.50 1.82
0.70 35.00 1.96
0.75 37.50 2.10
0.80 40.00 2.24
0.85 42.50 2.38
0.90 45.00 2.52
0.95 47.50 2.66
1.00 50.00 2.80
1.10 55.00 3.08
1.20 60.00 3.36
1.30 65.00 3.64
1.40 70.00 3.92
1.50 75.00 4.20
1.60 80.00 4.48
1.70 85.00 4.76
1.80 90.00 5.04
1.90 95.00 5.32
2.00 100.00 5.60
2.10 105.00 5.88
2.20 110.00 6.16
2.30 115.00 6.44
2.40 120.00 6.72
2.50 125.00 7.00
2.60 130.00 7.28
2.70 135.00 7.56
2.80 140.00 7.84
2.90 145.00 8.12
3.00 150.00 8.40
3.10 155.00 8.68
3.20 160.00 8.96
3.30 165.00 9.24
3.40 170.00 9.52
3.50 175.00 9.80
3.60 180.00 10.08
3.70 185.00 10.36
3.80 190.00 10.64
3.90 195.00 10.92
4.00 200.00 11.20
4.20 210.00 11.76
4.40 220.00 12.32
4.60 230.00 12.88
4.80 240.00 13.44
5.00 250.00 14.00
(1) (50) (2.8)
Return to Top of Page
9.3 Nitrogen as Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate
N N
NH3 NO2 NO3
ppm uM/l mg/l
mg/l mg/l
0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000
0.005 0.357 0.006 0.016 0.022
0.010 0.714 0.012 0.033 0.044
0.015 1.071 0.018 0.049 0.066
0.020 1.429 0.024 0.066 0.089
0.025 1.786 0.030 0.082 0.111
0.030 2.143 0.036 0.099 0.133
0.035 2.500 0.043 0.115 0.155
0.040 2.857 0.049 0.131 0.177
0.045 3.214 0.055 0.148 0.199
0.050 3.571 0.061 0.164 0.221
0.055 3.929 0.067 0.181 0.244
0.060 4.286 0.073 0.197 0.266
0.065 4.643 0.079 0.214 0.288
0.070 5.000 0.085 0.230 0.310
0.075 5.357 0.091 0.246 0.332
0.080 5.714 0.097 0.263 0.354
0.085 6.071 0.103 0.279 0.376
0.090 6.429 0.109 0.296 0.399
0.095 6.786 0.115 0.312 0.421
0.100 7.143 0.121 0.329 0.443
0.15 10.71 0.18 0.49
0.66
0.20 14.29 0.24 0.66
0.89
0.25 17.86 0.30 0.82
1.11
0.30 21.43 0.36 0.99
1.33
0.35 25.00 0.42 1.15
1.55
0.40 28.57 0.49 1.31
1.77
0.45 32.14 0.55 1.48
1.99
0.50 35.71 0.61 1.64
2.21
0.55 39.29 0.67 1.81
2.44
0.60 42.86 0.73 1.97
2.66
0.65 46.43 0.79 2.14
2.88
0.70 50.00 0.85 2.30
3.10
0.75 53.57 0.91 2.46
3.32
0.80 57.14 0.97 2.63
3.54
0.85 60.71 1.03 2.79
3.76
0.90 64.29 1.09 2.96
3.99
0.95 67.86 1.15 3.12
4.21
1.00 71.43 1.21 3.29
4.43
1.50 107.14 1.82 4.93 6.64
2.00 142.86 2.43 6.57 8.86
2.50 178.57 3.04 8.21 11.07
3.00 214.29 3.64 9.86 13.29
3.50 250.00 4.25 11.50 15.50
4.00 285.71 4.86 13.14 17.71
4.50 321.43 5.46 14.79 19.93
5.00 357.14 6.07 16.43 22.14
5.50 392.86 6.68 18.07 24.36
6.00 428.57 7.29 19.71 26.57
6.50 464.29 7.89 21.36 28.79
7.00 500.00 8.50 23.00 31.00
7.50 535.71 9.11 24.64 33.21
8.00 571.43 9.71 26.29 35.43
8.50 607.14 10.32 27.93 37.64
9.00 642.86 10.93 29.57 39.86
9.50 678.57 11.54 31.21 42.07
10.00 714.29 12.14 32.86 44.29
(1) (1000/14)(17/14)(46/14)(62/14)
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9.4 Calcium
Ca CaCO3 dH
mg/l ppm
0.00 0.00 0.00
5.00 12.50 0.70
10.00 25.00 1.40
15.00 37.50 2.10
20.00 50.00 2.80
25.00 62.50 3.50
30.00 75.00 4.20
35.00 87.50 4.90
40.00 100.00 5.60
45.00 112.50 6.30
50.00 125.00 7.00
55.00 137.50 7.70
60.00 150.00 8.40
65.00 162.50 9.10
70.00 175.00 9.80
75.00 187.50 10.50
80.00 200.00 11.20
85.00 212.50 11.90
90.00 225.00 12.60
95.00 237.50 13.30
100.00 250.00 14.00
110.00 275.00 15.40
120.00 300.00 16.80
130.00 325.00 18.20
140.00 350.00 19.60
150.00 375.00 21.00
160.00 400.00 22.40
170.00 425.00 23.80
180.00 450.00 25.20
190.00 475.00 26.60
200.00 500.00 28.00
210.00 525.00 29.40
220.00 550.00 30.80
230.00 575.00 32.20
240.00 600.00 33.60
250.00 625.00 35.00
260.00 650.00 36.40
270.00 675.00 37.80
280.00 700.00 39.20
290.00 725.00 40.60
300.00 750.00 42.00
320.00 800.00 44.80
340.00 850.00 47.60
360.00 900.00 50.40
380.00 950.00 53.20
400.00 1000.00 56.00
420.00 1050.00 58.80
440.00 1100.00 61.60
460.00 1150.00 64.40
480.00 1200.00 67.20
500.00 1250.00 70.00
(1) (100/40)(56/400)
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10.0
Credits:
The original document was created by the
joint effort of many individual people, sharing a common interest in
"Reef Keeping". Those who allowed their names published
were:
Patti Beadles
Craig Bingman
Kevin Carpenter (editor)
Gary Dudley
Frank M. Greco
Ken Koellner
Dustin Laurence (FTP site sponsor)
Teresa Moore
David O'Brien
Chris Paris
Paul Prior
Keith Rogers
Mark Rosenstein
Dave Sheehy (proof reader)
Greg Smith
Spass Stoiantschewsky
Anthony Tse
Steve Tyree
John Ward (FTP site sponsor)
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This
Hypertext Copy of the Aquaria FAQ was updated and edited by Brian
K. Speck
